Sustainability Strategy: Fashion’s Post-Growth Challenge
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Sustainable Fashion Strategy: Time to Rethink the Whole Game
Well, hello there, lovely people! This summer, I found myself at the Source exhibition in London. A great place to catch up with friends, clients, and all the latest “aha” moments in the business.
But it wasn’t just the rails of swishy new collections turning heads. The real buzz? A packed-out panel discussion titled: Fewer Products, Bigger Impact? Making the business case for a post-growth model. The line-up was stellar with Helena Mansell-Stopher (CEO, Products of Change), Simon Platts (SP&KO Consultancy), Nick Reed (Founder, Neem London), and Charlie Jones (Founder, Phase London). Each is a champion for doing things differently, with a sharp eye on the future of fashion.
Let’s be honest, fashion has always loved a reinvention, but the stakes in 2025 are something else. If you’ve been keeping an eye on the currents (and the growing stack of new legislation), you’ll know brands are feeling the squeeze. On one side, there’s the pressure to hit those sustainability targets; on the other, there’s the very real need to keep the lights on in an ultra-competitive market. To add to the fun, governments are now pushing for full transparency on everything from environmental impact to social responsibility.
The Changing World We Live In
They’re blowing in slow fashion, minimalism, and on-demand manufacturing. Consumers are voting with their wallets and choosing quality over quantity. According to the sharp minds at McKinsey, the fashion brands that will come out on top are the ones that can walk the tightrope between bold sustainability commitments and real-world profitability.
So, What Did We Learn?
In a nutshell: if you want to build a sustainable strategy in 2025 and beyond, you need to rip up the old rulebook and get comfy with a whole lot of new maths. Here are Onwards and Up top tips from the panel discussion on how to make it happen.
Rethink the “Magic Maths”: True Cost, Not Just Cost Per Unit
Helena Mansell-Stopher was clear: profitability and sustainability strategies are NOT mutually exclusive, but only if you know your real numbers. The panel called it “magic maths”, moving way beyond the old cost-per-unit game. Now, you’ve got to factor in everything: waste disposal (those landfill fees aren’t getting any cheaper), compliance with new regulations, packaging charges, and those looming environmental impact penalties. That “cheap” bulk buy from overseas? By the time you pay for freight, compliance, and all that unsold stock, it’s not so cheap after all.
The trick? Map your full product lifecycle costs. Think about Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), calculate the true cost of nearshore versus offshore, and get forensic about whether it’s better to make fewer items at a higher margin, rather than chasing volume for the sake of it.
Embrace Demand-Driven Production: Only Make What They Want
Simon Platts, with his decades of sourcing know-how, hammered home the shift to demand-driven production. It’s no longer about guessing and hoping, it’s about listening. Use pre-orders to test the waters, small batch runs with factories who will flex their minimums, and digital tools to validate ideas before you go all-in.
Build relationships with suppliers who get that agility is the new black. If you’re still cranking out thousands of units “just in case,” you’ll drown in dead stock (and the environmental guilt that comes with it). On-demand and data-led production isn’t just smart, it’s survival.
Build Brand Loyalty Through Values, Not Volume
Nick Reed (Neem London) was refreshingly honest: “There’s no point pretending you’re everything to everyone.” Authenticity is your superpower. Today’s customers want to buy into brands with a conscience, not just another logo tee. Tell your brand story, show them your supply chain, and own your values.
Be transparent about your process (even the messy bits), and focus on quality over quantity. The slow fashion crowd are happy to wait, and they’ll keep coming back if you stick to your principles. It’s about building a loyal tribe, not chasing every last sale.
Leverage Technology and Data: Smarter, Not Harder
Charlie Jones (Phase London) is a tech whizz, and he made a solid point: “If you’re not using data, you’re guessing.” AI and analytics are your new best friends, helping you track what’s selling, what’s stalling, and what your competitors are up to. Use these insights to make smarter buying decisions, manage inventory, and even predict trends.
Implement systems that give you a true, granular view of costs, and don’t keep them locked in the finance department. Share your data with suppliers, partners, and your own team. Collaboration and transparency are the future.
Collaborate for Impact: Buddy Up, Don’t Go It Alone
This one’s close to my heart! The panel agreed that the old “go it alone” model is fading fast. Partner up with competitors, share resources (yes, really), and pool your knowledge.
You might not be able to reach critical mass on your own, but together? You can influence suppliers, push for better standards, and share the costs of innovation. Whether it’s fabrics, freight, or clever tech, it pays to build strong networks.
Educate and Empower Your Team: Knowledge is Queen
Your commercial and buying teams are the engine room. Train them to see the full picture, not just the intake margin. Give them tools to calculate lifecycle costs, understand sustainability trade-offs, and weigh up long-term value over short-term wins.
Move away from old KPIs that only reward margin. Empower your team to make decisions that are good for profit and the planet.
Supply Chain Transparency: No More Smoke and Mirrors
Traceability is now non-negotiable. You need to know exactly where your products come from, right down to the farm. That means measuring Scope 3 emissions (which, by the way, make up the lion’s share of fashion’s environmental impact), visiting suppliers, and documenting your story.
Regulation is only getting stricter, so make supply chain transparency your badge of honour, not a box-ticking exercise.
Profitability Meets Purpose: The Sweet Spot
If your sustainability strategy isn’t financially viable, it simply won’t last. The trick is to find “small wins” everywhere: cut waste, localise sourcing, and build efficiencies that pay off both financially and environmentally.
Make a solid business case for every initiative, showing long-term value, not just upfront cost.
Adapt to New Consumer Priorities: It’s All About Values
Today’s shoppers are savvy. Gen Z and younger millennials want to know who made it, where, and how. They’ll pay (and wait!) for products that align with their values.
Segment your messaging, use in-person events for deeper connection, and don’t be afraid to take a stand. Not everyone will agree, but those who do will be your best advocates.
Get Ahead of Legislation: Turn Rules Into an Advantage
Don’t wait for the law to come knocking. Start building systems to track and report your environmental impacts now, from EPR to ecodesign standards. Use new regulations as a platform to show leadership and set your brand apart.
Optimism in the Face of Urgency: Action Over Anxiety
The climate headlines are enough to make anyone want to hide under the duvet, but we can’t afford to freeze. The panel urged us to balance realism with optimism: ask yourself what legacy you want to leave, and make decisions that are good for future generations. Kindness, purpose, and profit can coexist.
Scaling the Right Way: Grow Without Losing Your Soul
Finally, growth is great, but only if it doesn’t mean sacrificing your values. Work with manufacturers who understand your mission, keep your systems flexible, and use tech to stay on track as you expand. Profitable growth is possible, just don’t lose sight of what makes you, well, YOU.
Where to Start? Get Your Numbers Right
If you take one thing from this, start with the “magic math.” Get forensic about your true costs. Then build outwards: demand-driven production, authentic marketing, and collaborative partnerships. The goal? Make the most sustainable choice, also the most profitable.
So, hats off to the panel at Source for the inspiration. If you need help making sense of it all, you know where to find me. At Onwards and Up, we’re all about turning good intentions into great business.